Georges Comte
Sur Roche Bonive, 2009

Grower: Georges Comte
Region: Émagny, Doubs, France
Grape Varieties: Chardonnay
Viticulture: Organic
Size: 75cl bottle

It's our absolute pleasure to have any of the wines of Georges Comte, and here we are with three distinctive bottles each from their own vineyard sites. Georges makes wine to a tradition not often seen anymore; the work is truly done in the vineyard here, and distinctive vineyards they are. Nestled in a rather unexplored region that's not-quite-Burgundy, not-quite-Jura, we find a Jurassic climate with Burgundian terroir (primarily limestone) that plays a major role in the wines. The real cellar work revolves around patience, something Georges certainly doesn't lack. It's a slower pace of life in his humble cellar situated just under the narrow stairs that lead up to his home. The wines are given plenty of time to rest after a simple vinification of direct-pressing and fermentation and elevage in old barrels, never fined or filtered. Georges doesn't release wines until they're ready, and even then, requires a bit of coaxing to let them go. The wines speak volume to what that slower, simpler pace can achieve; for us, they'd easily be in the same weight class as some of the finest Meursaults around. Perhaps the most evolved of the group, the Sur Roche Bonive has opened its doors to show everything it can offer: prickly marscapone character intermingles with warming spices and herbs; an opulent, golden acidity carries the weight of the wine through to a long, satisfying finish. Wine with an incredible depth of character, showing immense complexity.