Manuel Jesus Nieves is the current capataz (cellar master) at Bodega Emilio Hidalgo. To say ‘current’ almost seems a little ineffectual, as he has been overseeing the Hildago family’s sherry production for over 4 decades. Traditionally a capataz works their way up to the role over many years, learning the unique signatures and methods of their house through experience and knowledge passed on from their predecessors. Indeed Manuel learned the...