I first met Dider at the post-salon and rather off-the-books tasting at Babbass’s chai in Beaulieu-sur-Layon. I’ve been to a DIY salon or two in my day, but I hadn’t quite prepared for what was beyond the barn doors, past the for-hire crepe stand and the queue for the literal outhouse. It was a bit of a who's-who of natural wine, with what seemed like a hundred people bumping elbows,...