Jean-Marc Dreyer is an evolving winemaker. Jean-Marc took the reins of his father’s estate back in 2004, and at that time went through phases of interest in new oak, hearty battonage, and residual sugar. It’s a far cry from the wines Dreyer makes today, but certainly gives the sense that Jean-Marc allows himself to become a part of the wines as much as he does the fruit or terroir. And despite the introduction of biodynamics in the vineyards back in 2003, the road to natural wine production was a winding one. For many years Jean-Marc teetered between sulfuring and not sulfuring the wines, with some cuvees getting a sprinkle and some going without. It wasn’t until 2013 and a long period of reflection whilst walking the famous Camino de Saint-Jacques de Compostelle pilgrimage, or Way of Saint James, that Dreyer made the decision to cut sulfur from the equation entirely.
Today Jean-Marc makes wines of immense character, choosing to macerate most of his white varietals and creating co-fermented blends when the pinot noir vines yield tiny productions. It’s a joyous approach to winemaking, and certainly one that reflects the winemaker himself: he’s known to many as an incredibly kind individual and one deeply involved in the natural wine community.