Sven Enderle and Florian Moll were friends from school, and after working in the wine industry abroad and back home, they re-united and began their domaine in a garage in Münchweier, Baden, in the south of Germany in 2007. Since the beginning they have championed a farming style that is low on mechanical and chemical intervention and high on precision and focus. Their approach is driven by a desire to represent their chosen varietals and terroir honestly and naturally, and they classify their wines as table wines to ensure that they can work unrestricted by local law or the strictures of conventional classification.
Quietly toiling away, mostly working with pinot noir (or spätburgunder as it is known locally), they have also been producing white wines and macerated whites (yes, orange wine) from müller-thurgau, auxerrois, and pinot gris, and have been making low to no sulphur wines long before the new wave of German natural winemaking really kicked off. In fact so ahead of the current trend were they, that people were shocked, confused and sometimes downright offended by some of the techniques that they chose to employ, or not to employ at the domaine.
The Baden region receives the most sun in Germany and it has a culture and a big business of conventional wine growing and making. Whether you are a small vigneron, if you just grow grapes for the local co-op, or if you’re one of the big houses, there are processes that you are required and just expected to follow in Baden, and by going against these seemingly age old traditions (but actually just going back to the way that things would have been done by their grandfathers) Enderle and Moll made quite a few waves, but luckily for us this was not a problem for them, and they stuck to their ideals and are making arguably some of the best pinot noir in Germany.
‘Weiss and Grau’ is their absurdly popular orange wine and as well as their white cuvée ‘Müller’ and their spätburgunder rosé, there are a range of pinot noir cuvées in the Enderle and Moll stable, but not every year yields the fruit to produce them all. They produce up to four single site Grand Cru cuvées from old vines (some up to 70+ years age), as well as the ‘Liaison’ from the “younger”, 45 year old vines from those sites. The youngest of their vines are 30 years of age and produce the cuvée ‘Basis’.
Sven left the partnership in 2019 and Florian now works with a new team. They still farm their vines organically using biodynamic practices and all labour is completed manually. They work with some of the oldest vines in Baden, grown on sandstone and limestone, and they believe that these deeply rooted, low yielding vines are essential to produce the quality of terroir driven wines that they are going for, rather than trying to achieve the more common local style by using over cropped, super ripe fruit and new oak as is the general trend.
Spontaneous ferments with wild yeasts, delicate extraction in an old basket press, and elevage in old Burgundian oak barrels (some even came from Domaine Dujac!) are all techniques that are employed to aid in their mission to raise their magnificent and life-filled real wines of honest character.